Friday, June 12, 2009

Espadrilles everywhere

The nice Scot who checked us into our apartment made it a point to tell me that women's shoes were an excellent buy in Barcelona. I wonder how he knew...

We went to a famous espadrille shop today, making espadrilles by hand since 1902. La Manual Alpargatera is a crowded little place with rather unprepossessing window displays. Inside is a nice selection of espadrilles in different heel heights and designs. Apparently they also make custom orders. It was cute to see the old ladies hopping on the ladder to get different sizes from the big wall of espadrilles. My lady kept speaking Spanish to me, I think I understood most of what she was talking about - ah, the international language of shoes.

Three pairs - a very successful outing. No, clearly they weren't all for me :)

Churros and Chocolate

Churros are not a Catalan specialty, and are supposed to be better down south in Andalucia. However, I read a blog recommendation for a churros place in Barcelona that was supposed to be up to Andalucian standards. This became a bit of a quest for us, especially since the first two times we went by the place, it was tragically closed - with no posted hours.

But when it comes to food, I am nothing if not persistent. Today - success!Xurreria (Banys Nous, 8) is a single little storefront that specializes in churros and other fried goodies. We went in and ordered 3 orders (100g per order at 1 euro each) - we had to wait for 5 mins as a fresh batch was fried up. They were placed in a paper bag, weighed and about a tablespoon of sugar was added to the bag and it was shaken up.

We then went a few doors down the street to La Granja (Banys Nous, 4), a milk bar and ordered our xocolata and suisa (a Barcelona chocolate that's less thick but smothered in an enormous mound of whipped cream). We brought our churros out and began consuming them at a very rapid pace, pausing only to dip them in the viscous hot chocolate.

The 3 orders disappeared very quickly. So I ran back to Xurreria and bought 2 more orders. This seemed to be very amusing for the little old man - you'd think this happened fairly often!

Finally, we had our churros and chocolate. Lots of it. Yum!

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Overeating again....

We headed out to dinner at the relatively early hour of 8 pm and only had a few minutes wait for four seats at the counter at TapaƧ24. And we all had stools at the bar right away! This was where we had tried to go two nights earlier.By now, we've figured out the kind of classic tapas that we like. So we had a number of the same things we had last night at Inopia. The standouts here were the patatas bravas covered with scrambled eggs and jamon - yum! The Bikini sandwich was fancier here - ham, cheese and truffles (of course the kids preferred the simpler version from Inopia). But the croquettes were good, as were the Bombes de Barcelona (meat and potatoes, breaded and fried).The girls pronounced the prawns as being better tonight. Oddly enough, when we ordered, the waiter said the prawns hadn't been delivered yet and we would have to wait. The same thing happened last night at Inopia - apparently, all the prawns get delivered to tapas bars around 8:30 pm?! Then the waiter returned later to tell us that they were now available to be ordered.
The service was good and our waiter was very nice to the girls, who tried almost everything we ordered, which made me happy! Finally, a great dessert - chocolate mousse-like pudding, served with olive oil, sea salt and crackers. Sweet and savoury - it was strangely addicting (reminds me of Sketch's soft serve vanilla ice cream with olive oil and sea salt).Another great meal and we rolled back to the apartment, happy and satisfied.

Gaudi, Gaudi, Gaudi

We spent a good part of the day at Parc Guell, a park designed by Gaudi in the hills of Barcelona, which also featured a Gaudi museum in the house in which he used to live. It was a nice day and the park was pretty crowded.Older daughter really like the lizard fountain. Younger daughter just liked all the mosaics in general.

After lunch we split up. Hubby and girls went to CosmoCaixa, the Science museum while I went shopping. This happens a lot (see earlier Paris blog). It keeps everyone happy!

La Boqueria Market

I awoke before the rest of the family this morning and headed out to La Boqueria, a famous market here in Barcelona. I enjoy markets a lot. After our Provence trip two years ago, I really enjoy country markets more, but La Boqueria was still fun.
I wandered up and down the aisles for a while - what struck me the most was the sheer variety and quality of the seafood. It was incredibly fresh - there was no smell at all, and there were many odd-looking things that I didn't recognize.Unfortunately, I wasn't really cooking at our apartment in BCN so didn't need any of the fresh things. The produce was nice and I bought some cherries and bananas. The meats looked good but the hanging hams were truly impressive.
I had breakfast at a small but very famous tapas place called Pinotxo Bar. I actually walked past it a few times and on the third pass, saw one seat open on the side. So I sat myself down, ordered what my neighbor was eating and a capuccino. It turned out to be a Spanish omelette (tortilla) with aubergine and another with potatoes and onion. Served with the traditional BCN accompaniment of toasted bread rubbed with fresh tomato and drizzled with olive oil. It was an excellent breakfast! I did notice a few plates of squid going past, accompanied by glasses of beer - 9 am seemed a little early for that...
I deigned to bring my family back a few pastries for their breakfast - they just don't know what they missed ;)

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Best Tapas Ever!

After a full day of sightseeing with stops at the Cathedral and the Barcelona History Museum, we were determined to go to dinner a little earlier than the past two nights. So we headed out at 7:30 pm to a restaurant called Inopia. It's a modern tapas place that was opened by Alberto AdriĆ , the brother of Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame (where Alberto is also the pastry chef). It's been written up in all sorts of publications and was featured in an episode of "Spain On the Road Again" where Gwyneth Paltrow proclaimed it BTE (Best Tapas Ever!)

We got there about 7:45 pm and there was a short wait. You can see my name first on the board! Of course, when we went inside, I realized that there was really only one table in this place. That's the table that Mario and Gwyneth ate at. The rest of the place is jam packed with stools, shallow counters and a big bar.

When we were led in, the greeter told me there were enough places for us, but not enough chairs yet. This turned out to be a strategy they employed. People would be led in and given some counter space - then you wait to swipe chairs when others left, so there was a constant shortage, but the newcomers were the ones who suffered until they figured out the swiping tactic. You'd think they'd just order 6 more stools and be done with it!

So the girls got stools within 5 mins or so, and it was another 10 mins before Sean swiped one for me. He stood the whole meal, but that was out of choice.

We ordered a ton of stuff. The menu was largely indecipherable (download it from their website if you don't believe me!) and our waiter didn't have a huge command of English. But we muddled through. And pointed a few times.

We had the following (in no particular order):
  • Patatas Bravas - fried potatoes served with aioli and a little hot sauce, these were outstanding. A specialty of the house.
  • Fried Prawns - interesting preparation, they were fried in their shells, I didn't quite get the point of this dish, although the prawns were very fresh so ultimately tasty.
  • White Asparagus with vinegar and mustard - this dish was good but not other-worldly. It was the most pricey dish at 13 euros.
  • Chicharricos - this dish was a total mistake. We thought it was a chorizo-like sausage. It turned out to be fried pork rinds. Only dish we didn't finish.
  • Olive sampler - loved the arbequinas and the aragon negras.
  • Pimiento del Padron - this turned out to be small roasted peppers that were spectacular, and I don't like peppers as a rule.
  • Croquettes - potato and jamon (ham) fried up, nothing could screw this up. We ate two servings but each serving was really small...really....
  • Bikinis - this is the Barcelona slang for ham and cheese toasted mini sandwiches, sliced into triangles. I could eat this every day. We had to get another order for the girls. Later, we tried to get a third order, but they were sold out. SOLD OUT! Of a dish that consists of cheese, ham and white bread!
  • "Chicken Dippers" - this is what our waiter called this dish. It was basically strips of white meat fried with what seemed like a coating of potato chips. It was excellent!
  • Chicken Kebab - considering this dish is just chicken on a skewer, it was very good.
  • La Bomba - "potato with meat inside" is how our waiter described it. We went with it. It was good - a giant meat-filled croquette.
  • Anchovy olives - again our waiter practically insisted we get this - 2 little white anchovy-wrapped olives. Not something I'd normally go for, but really not bad.
  • Rabbit Ribs - yes, we did get this. Blame the waiter. It was a little like frog's legs - very small. And fried. It was good but alas, the girls were squeamish about eating Thumper and Sean didn't care for it. I ate it all.
  • Torta Canarejal - we saw this pictured on a poster hanging up. We thought it was a dessert like a giant cream-filled choux pastry. Insead, it was a giant torta of creamy soft cheese, served with crispy rounds of bread. Not what we expected but good nonetheless. The couple next to us loved theirs so much that the gal was practically scraping all the cheese bits off the rind.
  • Pineapple served with lime shavings and molasses - I don't usually like pineapple but this dish was seriously good. The little bits of lime did it for me.
OK, I think that was it. There was a lot of food and most of it was inspired. All told, our bill was quite low, but from what I can decipher, we weren't charged for a few dishes. No wonder, I could barely keep track of everything!

I predict this will prove to be our best meal in Barcelona.

Happy Pills

In keeping with our candy-heavy trip, we went to a cute little candy shop called Happy Pills today. It's a very narrow little storefront on Avinguda del Portal de l'Angel, so it would be easy to miss. The space is efficiently filled with bins of many kinds of gummies, mini chocolates and lots of other unrecognizable sweets. But their specialty is the presentation - you pick your candy of choice and it's packaged up like medicine. With cute stickers.

We got many kinds of gummies (love the extraordinary choices available here!) including happy face gummies, gummy tarantulas, butterflies and lips (two kinds of lips were available - regular and Rolling Stone with tongue sticking out). The chilli pepper shaped gummy was actually really spicy and peppery - I had to spit it out :( Everything else was great.